Jean-Paul Samson is the dapper and distinguished owner of De Oost Bespoke Tailoring, a uniquely classic meets contemporary tailoring house on the Overtoom in Amsterdam, The Netherlands. A boutique shop which houses a wealth of skill, knowledge, charisma and some seriously impeccable fabric choices.
"We believe style is more than just appearance. It is the conveyance of an aura of distinction, as hard to define as it is easy to recognize."
How and where did you learn about your craft?
I just started and learned by experience.
What is your favourite fabric and why?
A proper fabric is in regards to the person and occasion. So it depends on the type of garment, person and what message needs to be conveyed.
In general I personally opt for 11 0z / 340 grams worsted woollens for suiting. Preferably a similar weight for trousers in Wool, Cotton or Mohair. Colorwise I prefer a Midnight Blue for suiting, blue for trousers or other natural colors and tones. I think the type of weave plays a very important role too.
What has been your favourite commision to date and why?
All are special but a ‘Vampire’ Morningcoat (how odd since these types roam at night and tend to die in daylight), on a very high level regarding detail finishes and construction.
Mostly it has to do with the person who commissions it. Orders for people with handicaps where we solve a challenge are also great.
What do you feel is a common misconception about your craft?
The effort that is needed in hours, skills and being able to convey this in a profitable business framework. People can appreciate what they don’t want to understand.
Who would be your dream client and why?
Nobody specific, I can work and flow with everybody.
What is your personal favourite Wool & Water design and why?
It would be a bespoke piece so I would opt for your Bow Ties, I like my Bow Ties to be the exact width of the lapel.
[Editor's note: The new, soon to be revealed Daydreamer Bow Tie collection features 13cms wide designs!]
How does wearing an impeccably tailored suit make you feel?
For me it does nothing since I am used to it. More importantly it is the way it is received by others that makes conducting business easy. It is also creates many daily benefits, going first in line etc etc.
It is a tool that communicates Alpha in an understated yet confident way. A key to open many doors you don’t even see.
Style is a reflection of your true values....
...as most discover that they are parrots echoing the values of others.
I am Alice and I run Wool & Water and Wool & Whiskers, a unique Bow Tie label from my garden studio in Amsterdam, fuelled by copious amounts of green tea.
